Sevilla to Cordoba

"We are in Cordoba and I am at the public library using their computers for free. We have seen a beautiful palace with 12 patio gardens today. There is also a fair on and so there are many ladies walking around in Flamenco dresses....beautiful.

Yesterday we visited the Catholic cathedral built inside the Muslim one. a magnificent architectural structure. Then we visited the Synagogue so we have covered the religions of the world. They have played such an important role in the development of the civilizations and societies over hundreds of years. Of course there was a lot of fighting related to the history as well. We have had several meals of tapas and have lots of ideas for Christmas Eve dinner this year. Dad has his reservations about much of the food ....but that is not a surprise.

I think we will try to go to the fair later today. Len and Dick are having a siesta. Most of the shops close for 2 hours in the afternoon and the restaurants don’t open for dinner until 7:30 or 8 pm. As a result of these hours, all of the tourist sites plan their hours around these times. Sometimes they are open throughout the day; sometimes for only the morning of 9:30 to 1 pm and some times again from 4:30 to 6pm. Life in Spain is on a different schedule than we are used to.

Sue is devoting a lot of time to her blog so our events are well chronicled. I don’t think we need to repeat it all here. Will have lots of stories when we get home. Love Mom"

Touring Sevilla

"We are enjoying Seville. It is smaller than Barcelona and the pace is slower. Today we visited the Cathedral and the bull ring. The bull ring was very interesting. Yesterday there was a bull fight so we wandered around the outside watching the crowds gather and seeing the local people. The Cathedral was amazing; Christopher Columbus is buried there....at least his remains are in the cathedral. There are over 30 chapels and too many saints for me to remember. The choir is fantastic as is the altar. The cathedral is undergoing renovations...perhaps it always is with such a large building. We have also visited an art gallery and the palace that is the Royal residence when the king is in Seville. Tomorrow we take the train to Cordoba.

Love Mom"

More on Barcelona

The Santiago to Barcelona post has been expanded by Sue.

Barcelona to Sevilla

City of Sevilla, Comunidad of Andalucia, 08 05 25, 16:23

On Friday we flew from Barcelona to Sevilla, two very different cities. Barcelona is large, bustling, cosmopolitan, a true world city, more European and Mediterranean then Spanish. Sevilla is smaller, and more Spanish. Sevilla, at its height, was the business centre for trade with the new world from about 1500 to 1650 and has been a smaller provincial capital since then. It is the heart of the Corrida (bull fighting) tradition. Our apartment here is only a block from the bull ring.

In Barcelona, we saw Tom the Builder at work. Antonio Gaudi’s great cathedral, the Sagrada Familia, is still under construction. It is of the same size and scale as the great medieval cathedrals of Europe, but planned and designed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and construction will go on for most or all of the 21st century. Lots of new mathematical, geometrical and geological sciences applied here including computer controlled diamond saws to cut the blocks, but still the same stone construction and the same general shape and design.

Dad”

From Sue Schubert

“Sevilla and it´s not hot!
Saving Seville´s story for another day

Bread for breakfast, for lunch and dinner, or the Spanish equivalent. Bread has been a theme on this blog a couple of times. So let’s finish that story. In Spanish, this delicacy shares its name with a deity, pan, the god of shepherds and flocks, of fertility and the breeze. Honestly! It is also present in religious symbolism; in Hebrew Christ is the Bread of Life just as Bethlehem, the city where he was born, is the House of Bread. The story is getting more interesting, isn’t it?

However, its origins go back even further. In the Neolithic era ground cereal grains were mixed with water forming a grain-paste that could be considered the seed of bread as we know it today. Egyptians invented fermented bread by adding yeast to the bread-making process and created the first bread-making ovens. The Greeks brought experimentation with the addition of new grains such as oats and rye, spices, nuts and dried fruit.

The staple became essential to the common people. However in the Middle Ages due to widespread famine bread became a coveted food. The defined social hierarchies of that time were also reflected in the bread: white bread was exclusive to the rich and wealthy. In modern times flour quality gradually improved, etc. And this nearly completes our story. Nearly. But let’s bring it up-to-date.

In Spain, there are over 300 varieties of bread. Each one has its own story behind it, which, you will be glad to know, I won’t relate to you. What I find of interest is that this delicious and versatile staple has lost consumers in the last few years here in Spain. In 2006, the average Spaniard consumed 54 k; less than half of what they ate in 1964 when they consumed 134 kg. (2.2 lbs. to a K.) But maybe this isn’t very curious at all. I mean most people are watching their waists (grow), aren’t they?

Other observations:

-Most Spanish women seem to be short, square-shouldered and fuerte (strong). Don’t mess with them!
-As we travel to the cities, all the Spaniards dress. All of them. Men in suits and ties (everyday, even without a job to go to such as retirees), or maybe no tie and a sports coat.
-There are more men’s clothing shops per square km. than in any country we have traveled in.
-The women don’t let the men outshine them. Suits, heels, silk, traditional. All stylish. Always. This isn’t the north where the women work in the field and shovel...you know.
-Spaniards love to discuss everything; talk; relate; tell; discourse. You get the idea. And they can make a cup of coffee last for hours while having this discussion (while people wait for their table). This isn’t an issue here.
-The sub-prime mess has affected Spain as well as everywhere in the world. Building is down.
-Many young people have high degrees (remember my story of Kristof from Hungary?) Same deal. Highly educated and no jobs for them. They want to stay; they will probably have to leave or continue waiting tables.
-Pedestrians can cross safely. Cars must stop for them in cross-walks. But if there isn’t a pedestrian there, the car can go.
-Restaurants can be out of food listed on the menu, for no reason. Or, for no reason we understand. "No lo tenemos." We don’t have it. Do you have a problem with that?
-Spaniards have ferias or fiestas most all year for many reasons, but mostly religious. Today and last week was the celebration of corpus, the body of Christ. The first hint was the many women we saw carrying red roses last Thursday in Barcelona. Then, today in Sevilla, we saw at least two processions leading up to local churches--bands playing; parishioners holding huge tall burning candles; altar boys, older ones in robes and priests; and the floats carrying saints and being carried. They were carrying the images of the saint being celebrated, or the baby Jesus. And underneath? There were men carrying these floats. All we could see were their feet and pant’s bottoms, all white. I got tons of photos!

This is all of the trivia I can think of right now. Must run. It is cocktail hour somewhere in the world, and we must honor that tradition! ”

Santiago to Barcelona

Well, we are in a different environment now. Barcelona is a lovely European city with lots of hustle and bustle. Today we did two orientation bus tours and now we have our agenda filled for the next two days. The weather is hot. I understand the need for a siesta. Tonight as I am typing this we have just finished a tapas supper and it was delicious. Now the evening air is clear and cool...very pleasant. I’ll let Dad do the rest of the message. Love Mom.”

“City of Barcelona, Comunidad of Cataluña 08 05 20 20:54

Well now we are tourists and by the looks of things just four of many thousands in Barcelona. I think many are here to start Mediterranean cruises as this is a major port city both for container cargo and for cruise liners.

Barcelona is a very international city with an enormously varied architecture both over time and styles. Of course it is the home city of Antonio Gaudi and his Sagrada Familia, a unique cathedral which he began around 1910 and which is still under construction and will be for some decades. He has other buildings in Barcelona as well, all very unique. It is also the home of Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso so we went to a Dali exhibition yesterday (unplanned, we just found it) but may save Picasso for Madrid.

Barcelona is also a city with a very rich culture, more Mediterranean than Spanish. Today until Friday we are here and then we fly to Sevilla.
Dad”

From Sue Schubert

"Warm, cloudy, rainy and then hot!.

As we hovered over Barcelona, we could see the ripples of the Meditteranean bathing the shores of Barcelona. We have arrived in Catalonia, home of the Catalán language. Lots of different spellings, many x´s used instead of ch or a j sound, etc. You get the picture. The language is used in business and government. But, as usual, all Spaniards must know castellano, or official Spanish, which is what I communicate in. Barcelona is a huge industrial center and busy port and the seat of the Generalitat de Catalunya.

All of our hotels up until now have been centrally located and Barcino 147 is no exception. This is our first B&B and it is quite an experience (to be elaborated on later, maybe). Located on the Gran Via, we walk everywhere. Well, almost. First, we see the city for nearly a full day via Tránsit Barcelona, big red double-decker busses with comprehension dialogue outlining major sights. Want to know where the Museo de la Sagrada Familia is? Right up the hill. The Museo de la historia del pueblo catalán? Down along the waterway. Oh, what is that? Another Gaudí structure? We learn to appreciate and admire him!

Antonio Gaudí (1852-1926) studied architecture in Barcelona. His style was influenced first by Catalán Gothic architecture with its emphasis on large areas of space, and subsequently by the Islamic and Medejár (mixture of Christian and Muslim) style. He also studied nature and animals which inspired his shapes, colors and textures. His most famous and as-yet unfinished monument is the Sagrada Familia (Church of the Holy Family), begun in 1882. Look up; look across; go by elevator to the top and look down. Until present day work continues on this behemouth. Like all of Gaudí´s work, it is organic and out of one´s imagination.

Jean and I visit Parc Guell, an enchanted forest with mushroom-shaped pavilions, a mosaic dragon and a remarkable rolling bench that held more people (tourists) than we cared to look at! We were off for quieter environs, the Monasterio de Pedrables, a monastery (for nuns) started by Queen Elisenda de Montcada in 1327. Huge, peaceful, carefully restored and, the best part, there are still nuns who inhabit the monastery. An enclave from the maddening crowds! Over the next few days, amongst the four of us, we absorb the Museu d´Historia de Catalunya, (a museum that details Catalunya from pre-history to present day); the Joan Miró museum; the waterfront; Las Ramblas where one must stroll at least once to prove he has visited Barcelona; el Mercado Boquerín, an incredibly huge open-air (but covered if that makes any sense) market full of stalls selling the requisite and indigenous fresh, preserved and cured food and, most important, places to eat. You won´t believe this, but Dick and I sat down and ordered, salivating all the while, and who would sit right next to us but a couple from Portland! You know what I am going to say--small world.

Traveling is hard work! We walk and then we walk some more; we bus it; Dick cheats and taxis it. We fall in bed exhausted by night. But not until we have eaten. Two nights we did tapas, the tiny dishes of Spain. Yum. Then Dick and Sue find a fabulous, very small (5 tables) Bistro Bixto of a-tipical tapas. Run by a Dane ex-pat, she is one of the most creative cooks we have ever been exposed to. We returned two nights and we think this says it all.

Where does the time go? Tomorrow we fly south to Sevilla!

"

(NB – The plane likely flew a straighter line then the pink one that appears on the map …. I hope)

Touring - Finisterre

"Today is Sunday and a rest day. We have been to 2 museums and are going on a city tour.

Yesterday we went by bus to Finisterre about 2 and a half hours. Then we hiked 2.5 km to the lighthouse. This is named Finisterre because the ancient Romans used to think it was the end of the earth. Love Mom

City of Santiago de Compostela, Province of A Coruña, Galicia 08 05 18 16:31

Your Mother has given you all the essential news but she does not know how to do a proper check in so I have done that. Yesterday I deposited a stone from the alvar at Tobermory into the Atlantic Ocean at Finisterre but we did not burn any piece of clothing to symbolize the end of the Camino.

Tomorrow will be an early start as we have an 8:55 flight to Barcelona. It will take about two hours to fly over the territory it took me six weeks to walk across. Barcelona will be a quite different part of Spain. It is in Cataluña and speaks a different language again. We have past through the area that speaks Castilian (what we call Spanish), here the language is Gallego and in Barcelona it will be Catalan.

It is cool and rainy here. We hope Barcelona which is on the Mediterranean will be warmer and sunnier.

Dad"

From Sue Schubert

"Rainy, cool
But cozy in the Cathedral and the museums

It was Sunday morning and nearly time for mass to start. But first let’s give thanks to St. James for our safe arrival into Santiago de Compostela. We climbed up to where he is perched and each thanked him in our own way (hug, pat, etc.). Then, Jean and I attended the beautiful mass and were extremely moved by the music and words in this incredible space.

Then, culture called. El Museo de los Peregrinos (Museum of Pilgrims) tells the story of the cult of St. James and the associated pilgrimage via paintings, statuary, maps and journals from as early as the 12th century, highlighting the important role both have played in the culture of Europe, as well as, the growth of Santiago and its cathedral. The most amazing item is a journal written in Japanese by a Japanese man in the mid-1980´s, a reflection complete with wonderful watercolor pictures depicting the highlights of his trip. The journal measures at least 2" thick by about 14" wide and 20" long. The pilgrimage also stimulated fine crafts such as jet workings (a special stone from the region), silversmiths and print-makers, to meet the local and foreign demand. So much to learn, so little time!

We walked into El Museo do Pobo Galego (the Museum of the Galician people), built in a 13th century monastery and were quickly drawn into the history of the Galicians. If you like history as much as we do, you too would have been mesmerized by the historic descriptions of the sea, the countryside, professions, music, dress, habitat and architecture, arts and crafts, society, memories and traditions of the Galician people. There are great economic, social and ideological changes in Galicia and this museum preserves this story. Curiously, wedding dresses were black! And, widows were required to wear black for at least six years. Their lives revolved, as most of ours do, around the family, the parish and the village; their rituals revolved around the calendar and seasons. Not very different from most people around the world, is it?

To celebrate our last night in Santiago, we ate authentic Italian food! Honestly. Yum!"

Celebrating the Pilgrimage

From Sue Schubert

"Countless people have come to Santiago de Compostela on pilgrimage since St. James´ tomb was discovered in the early 9th century. The final destination hasn’t changed nor have the motives for the journey but the itinerary has. While most of the Iberian Peninsula was under control of the Moors, the capital was Oviedo in Galicia where (we are now). With the Reconquest (which lasted approximately 700 until1492), when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella united Spain under the Roman Catholic Church and expulsed the last of the Moors and the Jews who didn’t convert, the capital was moved to León. According to who was in power, and where the capital of Spain was, pilgrims felt an obligation to pass through that capital on their way to Santiago. Today we visited a Gallego Museum of history which showed a huge map of pilgrim starting points, and they are endless--Eastern and Western Europe, the British Isles, Asia, Australia and beyond. Unbelievable! Oh, and the capital has changed and pilgrims no longer feel a compulsion to travel through it.

After arriving in Santiago on Thursday, we did the noble thing, take a shower. Then it was off to the Pilgrim’s Office to turn in our credentials. As Dick says, his credential (as all credentials), which has been stamped at stopping points along our journey, is his best souvenir. Mine, too. We went upstairs to the office and waited our turn until called in. Dick is first and is asked a number of questions: Why have you made the journey? Was it spiritual and Christian, too? He explained that he had just retired and needed time to think over the rest of his life, and the pilgrimage had given him this opportunity. Thus, he was awarded the official Compostela, the paper on which his name was written in Latin. He was pleased.

I was asked very little and received the same. I have a rather religious composure, I guess. As for Len, who had walked the furthest by far and done all the symbolic gestures (brought a rock to put on the pile at the crucero de hierro [iron cross], threw another rock from home into the Atlantic Ocean and more) did not receive the coveted Compostela, but one reserved for those pilgrims who claim to be on a spiritual not a religious pilgrimage. However, his morals prevailed, and he was not disappointed.

On Friday at noon we all attended the pilgrim’s mass where the priest read out a long list of countries from which the pilgrims originated, where they started and how many completed it from each country. The piece de resistance, however, was the botafumeiro, a huge (maybe 6´ long by 1´ diameter) silver container for incense which is hung from a very strong and long rope pulley-style from the extremely high ceiling (90') of the Cathedral of Santiago. When lit the smell and smoke of the incense pours out, and the priests start to swing it over the heads of the attendees until it reaches the ceilings!

Well, we thought, we have just one more item to check off our list before declaring ourselves successful pilgrims, a trek to Finisterre, the end of the earth or so was thought during Roman times before the explorers started, well, exploring the seas. On Saturday we took a 2.5 hour bus ride (which by foot would have taken us three days minimum) to the earth’s end, and then walked the 2.5 K (each way) to the lighthouse. The sun shone and the blue skies bathed us as we climbed the hill. Len descended the hill and threw his stone into the ocean; Jean had camera in hand. Sue photographed the beauty as I saw it through the lens. Dick tried to stay out of the sun. We did it! We celebrated with the best dinner of the trip! Dick and Jean both ordered rape (raw-pay), a wonderful white fish poached in olive oil and Spanish paprika, with potatoes. Len eats beef or chicken when we eat fish. Sue promises to serve what she had at home for guests! Padrones, small green peppers, a bit spicy, grilled or deep-fried and served with olive oil and sea salt over them. Fabulous. Her main dish was a seafood salpicon--a melange of freshly cooked fish and seafood of several varieties, in small pieces, combined with red pimiento, onion, cooked egg white, olive oil and sea salt, served cold. My mouth was, and is, watering. Oh, and a very good, older than we have been drinking, 2005, Rebiero wine."