Day 29 Leon to Astorga to Santa Catalina de Somoza

Day 29 – May 1 Take bus to Astorga then Astorga (Km 259) to Santa Catalina de Somoza (Km 250) = 9 km – Cumulative 494 km
"Hi Brandon et al

We have not checked in for a few days because we have not had ready access to a computer.

On April 30 we began to prepare to move on from Leon, now a troop of 4 instead of just one. I had planned to take an early train (07:10) from Leon to Astorga but I found out that as May 1 was a major holiday here that train was not running. So instead we took a bus leaving at 10:30 Thursday May 1.We arrived in Astorga around noon and began to walk. We completed 10 km that day and it was a bit of a struggle for your Mother. We stayed that night in an Alburgue, but it was not crowded so it was not too bad. Dick had a respiratory infection and did not sleep well."

From Sue Schubert

"Santa Catalina de Samoza
Thursday, 1st of May
55 dg. F (12.7C)., but it feels like 65 (18.3 C)!

I am surrounded by Spanishness! Isn’t that the best--being in Spain, the mother country of the language you love, the people you find so fascinating, speaking the language you have spent a good number of years trying to perfect (but never ever hoping to)? So, here we are--Dick and I, Len and Jean, finally together. And today was the day we started the Camino, a great day--beautiful blue skies, temperatures of maybe 60 dg. F., and crickets! You know it is peaceful when you can hear the crickets during the day. We hiked a short 10 km. to Santa Catalina and found our truly fabulous (first for three of us) albergue--clean, tidy and with a great restaurant!

But first let me tell you that I veered off the trail about 2 km. to an old, perfectly restored village which is home to a group of people called the Maragatos, about which litle is known. More mysterious than ever, more exciting to explore. Tiny, narrow streets, old, old buildings housing the people and what look like familial restaurants and places to put one´s head, a main plaza, a church with several stork nests and stork parents in residence--all too quaint and well-preserved. After many photos and much oohing, I walked the trail alone, completely alone to where I met up with my fellow pilgrims, and encountered along the way low stone walls, tilled land and Blue Fender´s butterflies (which are protected in Eugene, OR and which need a very specific habitat). I was at peace.

We arrived at our first albergue (El Caminante = The walker), early, found clean bunk beds (of course I am on top!) and settled in. A glass of red wine, a glass of beer, a plate of shrimp fresh from the Atlantic (heads still on--these are the gambas or medium-sized, beautiful). Now, we are on the trail. Now we are living. Oh, what is that I hear in the background? Hombres, Spanish hombres playing cards and talking at each other, loudly, just like they do. And it is fun; it is who they are; they are shouting their numbers! Yo, siete! Me, I have 7! Let the game begin!

Well I have sun to worship; birds to identify; other pilgrims to become acquainted with. We pilgrims are busy-relaxing, feeling, experiencing."