Celebrating the Pilgrimage

From Sue Schubert

"Countless people have come to Santiago de Compostela on pilgrimage since St. James´ tomb was discovered in the early 9th century. The final destination hasn’t changed nor have the motives for the journey but the itinerary has. While most of the Iberian Peninsula was under control of the Moors, the capital was Oviedo in Galicia where (we are now). With the Reconquest (which lasted approximately 700 until1492), when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella united Spain under the Roman Catholic Church and expulsed the last of the Moors and the Jews who didn’t convert, the capital was moved to León. According to who was in power, and where the capital of Spain was, pilgrims felt an obligation to pass through that capital on their way to Santiago. Today we visited a Gallego Museum of history which showed a huge map of pilgrim starting points, and they are endless--Eastern and Western Europe, the British Isles, Asia, Australia and beyond. Unbelievable! Oh, and the capital has changed and pilgrims no longer feel a compulsion to travel through it.

After arriving in Santiago on Thursday, we did the noble thing, take a shower. Then it was off to the Pilgrim’s Office to turn in our credentials. As Dick says, his credential (as all credentials), which has been stamped at stopping points along our journey, is his best souvenir. Mine, too. We went upstairs to the office and waited our turn until called in. Dick is first and is asked a number of questions: Why have you made the journey? Was it spiritual and Christian, too? He explained that he had just retired and needed time to think over the rest of his life, and the pilgrimage had given him this opportunity. Thus, he was awarded the official Compostela, the paper on which his name was written in Latin. He was pleased.

I was asked very little and received the same. I have a rather religious composure, I guess. As for Len, who had walked the furthest by far and done all the symbolic gestures (brought a rock to put on the pile at the crucero de hierro [iron cross], threw another rock from home into the Atlantic Ocean and more) did not receive the coveted Compostela, but one reserved for those pilgrims who claim to be on a spiritual not a religious pilgrimage. However, his morals prevailed, and he was not disappointed.

On Friday at noon we all attended the pilgrim’s mass where the priest read out a long list of countries from which the pilgrims originated, where they started and how many completed it from each country. The piece de resistance, however, was the botafumeiro, a huge (maybe 6´ long by 1´ diameter) silver container for incense which is hung from a very strong and long rope pulley-style from the extremely high ceiling (90') of the Cathedral of Santiago. When lit the smell and smoke of the incense pours out, and the priests start to swing it over the heads of the attendees until it reaches the ceilings!

Well, we thought, we have just one more item to check off our list before declaring ourselves successful pilgrims, a trek to Finisterre, the end of the earth or so was thought during Roman times before the explorers started, well, exploring the seas. On Saturday we took a 2.5 hour bus ride (which by foot would have taken us three days minimum) to the earth’s end, and then walked the 2.5 K (each way) to the lighthouse. The sun shone and the blue skies bathed us as we climbed the hill. Len descended the hill and threw his stone into the ocean; Jean had camera in hand. Sue photographed the beauty as I saw it through the lens. Dick tried to stay out of the sun. We did it! We celebrated with the best dinner of the trip! Dick and Jean both ordered rape (raw-pay), a wonderful white fish poached in olive oil and Spanish paprika, with potatoes. Len eats beef or chicken when we eat fish. Sue promises to serve what she had at home for guests! Padrones, small green peppers, a bit spicy, grilled or deep-fried and served with olive oil and sea salt over them. Fabulous. Her main dish was a seafood salpicon--a melange of freshly cooked fish and seafood of several varieties, in small pieces, combined with red pimiento, onion, cooked egg white, olive oil and sea salt, served cold. My mouth was, and is, watering. Oh, and a very good, older than we have been drinking, 2005, Rebiero wine."