Sevilla to Cordoba

"We are in Cordoba and I am at the public library using their computers for free. We have seen a beautiful palace with 12 patio gardens today. There is also a fair on and so there are many ladies walking around in Flamenco dresses....beautiful.

Yesterday we visited the Catholic cathedral built inside the Muslim one. a magnificent architectural structure. Then we visited the Synagogue so we have covered the religions of the world. They have played such an important role in the development of the civilizations and societies over hundreds of years. Of course there was a lot of fighting related to the history as well. We have had several meals of tapas and have lots of ideas for Christmas Eve dinner this year. Dad has his reservations about much of the food ....but that is not a surprise.

I think we will try to go to the fair later today. Len and Dick are having a siesta. Most of the shops close for 2 hours in the afternoon and the restaurants don’t open for dinner until 7:30 or 8 pm. As a result of these hours, all of the tourist sites plan their hours around these times. Sometimes they are open throughout the day; sometimes for only the morning of 9:30 to 1 pm and some times again from 4:30 to 6pm. Life in Spain is on a different schedule than we are used to.

Sue is devoting a lot of time to her blog so our events are well chronicled. I don’t think we need to repeat it all here. Will have lots of stories when we get home. Love Mom"

Touring Sevilla

"We are enjoying Seville. It is smaller than Barcelona and the pace is slower. Today we visited the Cathedral and the bull ring. The bull ring was very interesting. Yesterday there was a bull fight so we wandered around the outside watching the crowds gather and seeing the local people. The Cathedral was amazing; Christopher Columbus is buried there....at least his remains are in the cathedral. There are over 30 chapels and too many saints for me to remember. The choir is fantastic as is the altar. The cathedral is undergoing renovations...perhaps it always is with such a large building. We have also visited an art gallery and the palace that is the Royal residence when the king is in Seville. Tomorrow we take the train to Cordoba.

Love Mom"

More on Barcelona

The Santiago to Barcelona post has been expanded by Sue.

Barcelona to Sevilla

City of Sevilla, Comunidad of Andalucia, 08 05 25, 16:23

On Friday we flew from Barcelona to Sevilla, two very different cities. Barcelona is large, bustling, cosmopolitan, a true world city, more European and Mediterranean then Spanish. Sevilla is smaller, and more Spanish. Sevilla, at its height, was the business centre for trade with the new world from about 1500 to 1650 and has been a smaller provincial capital since then. It is the heart of the Corrida (bull fighting) tradition. Our apartment here is only a block from the bull ring.

In Barcelona, we saw Tom the Builder at work. Antonio Gaudi’s great cathedral, the Sagrada Familia, is still under construction. It is of the same size and scale as the great medieval cathedrals of Europe, but planned and designed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and construction will go on for most or all of the 21st century. Lots of new mathematical, geometrical and geological sciences applied here including computer controlled diamond saws to cut the blocks, but still the same stone construction and the same general shape and design.

Dad”

From Sue Schubert

“Sevilla and it´s not hot!
Saving Seville´s story for another day

Bread for breakfast, for lunch and dinner, or the Spanish equivalent. Bread has been a theme on this blog a couple of times. So let’s finish that story. In Spanish, this delicacy shares its name with a deity, pan, the god of shepherds and flocks, of fertility and the breeze. Honestly! It is also present in religious symbolism; in Hebrew Christ is the Bread of Life just as Bethlehem, the city where he was born, is the House of Bread. The story is getting more interesting, isn’t it?

However, its origins go back even further. In the Neolithic era ground cereal grains were mixed with water forming a grain-paste that could be considered the seed of bread as we know it today. Egyptians invented fermented bread by adding yeast to the bread-making process and created the first bread-making ovens. The Greeks brought experimentation with the addition of new grains such as oats and rye, spices, nuts and dried fruit.

The staple became essential to the common people. However in the Middle Ages due to widespread famine bread became a coveted food. The defined social hierarchies of that time were also reflected in the bread: white bread was exclusive to the rich and wealthy. In modern times flour quality gradually improved, etc. And this nearly completes our story. Nearly. But let’s bring it up-to-date.

In Spain, there are over 300 varieties of bread. Each one has its own story behind it, which, you will be glad to know, I won’t relate to you. What I find of interest is that this delicious and versatile staple has lost consumers in the last few years here in Spain. In 2006, the average Spaniard consumed 54 k; less than half of what they ate in 1964 when they consumed 134 kg. (2.2 lbs. to a K.) But maybe this isn’t very curious at all. I mean most people are watching their waists (grow), aren’t they?

Other observations:

-Most Spanish women seem to be short, square-shouldered and fuerte (strong). Don’t mess with them!
-As we travel to the cities, all the Spaniards dress. All of them. Men in suits and ties (everyday, even without a job to go to such as retirees), or maybe no tie and a sports coat.
-There are more men’s clothing shops per square km. than in any country we have traveled in.
-The women don’t let the men outshine them. Suits, heels, silk, traditional. All stylish. Always. This isn’t the north where the women work in the field and shovel...you know.
-Spaniards love to discuss everything; talk; relate; tell; discourse. You get the idea. And they can make a cup of coffee last for hours while having this discussion (while people wait for their table). This isn’t an issue here.
-The sub-prime mess has affected Spain as well as everywhere in the world. Building is down.
-Many young people have high degrees (remember my story of Kristof from Hungary?) Same deal. Highly educated and no jobs for them. They want to stay; they will probably have to leave or continue waiting tables.
-Pedestrians can cross safely. Cars must stop for them in cross-walks. But if there isn’t a pedestrian there, the car can go.
-Restaurants can be out of food listed on the menu, for no reason. Or, for no reason we understand. "No lo tenemos." We don’t have it. Do you have a problem with that?
-Spaniards have ferias or fiestas most all year for many reasons, but mostly religious. Today and last week was the celebration of corpus, the body of Christ. The first hint was the many women we saw carrying red roses last Thursday in Barcelona. Then, today in Sevilla, we saw at least two processions leading up to local churches--bands playing; parishioners holding huge tall burning candles; altar boys, older ones in robes and priests; and the floats carrying saints and being carried. They were carrying the images of the saint being celebrated, or the baby Jesus. And underneath? There were men carrying these floats. All we could see were their feet and pant’s bottoms, all white. I got tons of photos!

This is all of the trivia I can think of right now. Must run. It is cocktail hour somewhere in the world, and we must honor that tradition! ”

Santiago to Barcelona

Well, we are in a different environment now. Barcelona is a lovely European city with lots of hustle and bustle. Today we did two orientation bus tours and now we have our agenda filled for the next two days. The weather is hot. I understand the need for a siesta. Tonight as I am typing this we have just finished a tapas supper and it was delicious. Now the evening air is clear and cool...very pleasant. I’ll let Dad do the rest of the message. Love Mom.”

“City of Barcelona, Comunidad of Cataluña 08 05 20 20:54

Well now we are tourists and by the looks of things just four of many thousands in Barcelona. I think many are here to start Mediterranean cruises as this is a major port city both for container cargo and for cruise liners.

Barcelona is a very international city with an enormously varied architecture both over time and styles. Of course it is the home city of Antonio Gaudi and his Sagrada Familia, a unique cathedral which he began around 1910 and which is still under construction and will be for some decades. He has other buildings in Barcelona as well, all very unique. It is also the home of Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso so we went to a Dali exhibition yesterday (unplanned, we just found it) but may save Picasso for Madrid.

Barcelona is also a city with a very rich culture, more Mediterranean than Spanish. Today until Friday we are here and then we fly to Sevilla.
Dad”

From Sue Schubert

"Warm, cloudy, rainy and then hot!.

As we hovered over Barcelona, we could see the ripples of the Meditteranean bathing the shores of Barcelona. We have arrived in Catalonia, home of the Catalán language. Lots of different spellings, many x´s used instead of ch or a j sound, etc. You get the picture. The language is used in business and government. But, as usual, all Spaniards must know castellano, or official Spanish, which is what I communicate in. Barcelona is a huge industrial center and busy port and the seat of the Generalitat de Catalunya.

All of our hotels up until now have been centrally located and Barcino 147 is no exception. This is our first B&B and it is quite an experience (to be elaborated on later, maybe). Located on the Gran Via, we walk everywhere. Well, almost. First, we see the city for nearly a full day via Tránsit Barcelona, big red double-decker busses with comprehension dialogue outlining major sights. Want to know where the Museo de la Sagrada Familia is? Right up the hill. The Museo de la historia del pueblo catalán? Down along the waterway. Oh, what is that? Another Gaudí structure? We learn to appreciate and admire him!

Antonio Gaudí (1852-1926) studied architecture in Barcelona. His style was influenced first by Catalán Gothic architecture with its emphasis on large areas of space, and subsequently by the Islamic and Medejár (mixture of Christian and Muslim) style. He also studied nature and animals which inspired his shapes, colors and textures. His most famous and as-yet unfinished monument is the Sagrada Familia (Church of the Holy Family), begun in 1882. Look up; look across; go by elevator to the top and look down. Until present day work continues on this behemouth. Like all of Gaudí´s work, it is organic and out of one´s imagination.

Jean and I visit Parc Guell, an enchanted forest with mushroom-shaped pavilions, a mosaic dragon and a remarkable rolling bench that held more people (tourists) than we cared to look at! We were off for quieter environs, the Monasterio de Pedrables, a monastery (for nuns) started by Queen Elisenda de Montcada in 1327. Huge, peaceful, carefully restored and, the best part, there are still nuns who inhabit the monastery. An enclave from the maddening crowds! Over the next few days, amongst the four of us, we absorb the Museu d´Historia de Catalunya, (a museum that details Catalunya from pre-history to present day); the Joan Miró museum; the waterfront; Las Ramblas where one must stroll at least once to prove he has visited Barcelona; el Mercado Boquerín, an incredibly huge open-air (but covered if that makes any sense) market full of stalls selling the requisite and indigenous fresh, preserved and cured food and, most important, places to eat. You won´t believe this, but Dick and I sat down and ordered, salivating all the while, and who would sit right next to us but a couple from Portland! You know what I am going to say--small world.

Traveling is hard work! We walk and then we walk some more; we bus it; Dick cheats and taxis it. We fall in bed exhausted by night. But not until we have eaten. Two nights we did tapas, the tiny dishes of Spain. Yum. Then Dick and Sue find a fabulous, very small (5 tables) Bistro Bixto of a-tipical tapas. Run by a Dane ex-pat, she is one of the most creative cooks we have ever been exposed to. We returned two nights and we think this says it all.

Where does the time go? Tomorrow we fly south to Sevilla!

"

(NB – The plane likely flew a straighter line then the pink one that appears on the map …. I hope)

Touring - Finisterre

"Today is Sunday and a rest day. We have been to 2 museums and are going on a city tour.

Yesterday we went by bus to Finisterre about 2 and a half hours. Then we hiked 2.5 km to the lighthouse. This is named Finisterre because the ancient Romans used to think it was the end of the earth. Love Mom

City of Santiago de Compostela, Province of A Coruña, Galicia 08 05 18 16:31

Your Mother has given you all the essential news but she does not know how to do a proper check in so I have done that. Yesterday I deposited a stone from the alvar at Tobermory into the Atlantic Ocean at Finisterre but we did not burn any piece of clothing to symbolize the end of the Camino.

Tomorrow will be an early start as we have an 8:55 flight to Barcelona. It will take about two hours to fly over the territory it took me six weeks to walk across. Barcelona will be a quite different part of Spain. It is in Cataluña and speaks a different language again. We have past through the area that speaks Castilian (what we call Spanish), here the language is Gallego and in Barcelona it will be Catalan.

It is cool and rainy here. We hope Barcelona which is on the Mediterranean will be warmer and sunnier.

Dad"

From Sue Schubert

"Rainy, cool
But cozy in the Cathedral and the museums

It was Sunday morning and nearly time for mass to start. But first let’s give thanks to St. James for our safe arrival into Santiago de Compostela. We climbed up to where he is perched and each thanked him in our own way (hug, pat, etc.). Then, Jean and I attended the beautiful mass and were extremely moved by the music and words in this incredible space.

Then, culture called. El Museo de los Peregrinos (Museum of Pilgrims) tells the story of the cult of St. James and the associated pilgrimage via paintings, statuary, maps and journals from as early as the 12th century, highlighting the important role both have played in the culture of Europe, as well as, the growth of Santiago and its cathedral. The most amazing item is a journal written in Japanese by a Japanese man in the mid-1980´s, a reflection complete with wonderful watercolor pictures depicting the highlights of his trip. The journal measures at least 2" thick by about 14" wide and 20" long. The pilgrimage also stimulated fine crafts such as jet workings (a special stone from the region), silversmiths and print-makers, to meet the local and foreign demand. So much to learn, so little time!

We walked into El Museo do Pobo Galego (the Museum of the Galician people), built in a 13th century monastery and were quickly drawn into the history of the Galicians. If you like history as much as we do, you too would have been mesmerized by the historic descriptions of the sea, the countryside, professions, music, dress, habitat and architecture, arts and crafts, society, memories and traditions of the Galician people. There are great economic, social and ideological changes in Galicia and this museum preserves this story. Curiously, wedding dresses were black! And, widows were required to wear black for at least six years. Their lives revolved, as most of ours do, around the family, the parish and the village; their rituals revolved around the calendar and seasons. Not very different from most people around the world, is it?

To celebrate our last night in Santiago, we ate authentic Italian food! Honestly. Yum!"

Celebrating the Pilgrimage

From Sue Schubert

"Countless people have come to Santiago de Compostela on pilgrimage since St. James´ tomb was discovered in the early 9th century. The final destination hasn’t changed nor have the motives for the journey but the itinerary has. While most of the Iberian Peninsula was under control of the Moors, the capital was Oviedo in Galicia where (we are now). With the Reconquest (which lasted approximately 700 until1492), when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella united Spain under the Roman Catholic Church and expulsed the last of the Moors and the Jews who didn’t convert, the capital was moved to León. According to who was in power, and where the capital of Spain was, pilgrims felt an obligation to pass through that capital on their way to Santiago. Today we visited a Gallego Museum of history which showed a huge map of pilgrim starting points, and they are endless--Eastern and Western Europe, the British Isles, Asia, Australia and beyond. Unbelievable! Oh, and the capital has changed and pilgrims no longer feel a compulsion to travel through it.

After arriving in Santiago on Thursday, we did the noble thing, take a shower. Then it was off to the Pilgrim’s Office to turn in our credentials. As Dick says, his credential (as all credentials), which has been stamped at stopping points along our journey, is his best souvenir. Mine, too. We went upstairs to the office and waited our turn until called in. Dick is first and is asked a number of questions: Why have you made the journey? Was it spiritual and Christian, too? He explained that he had just retired and needed time to think over the rest of his life, and the pilgrimage had given him this opportunity. Thus, he was awarded the official Compostela, the paper on which his name was written in Latin. He was pleased.

I was asked very little and received the same. I have a rather religious composure, I guess. As for Len, who had walked the furthest by far and done all the symbolic gestures (brought a rock to put on the pile at the crucero de hierro [iron cross], threw another rock from home into the Atlantic Ocean and more) did not receive the coveted Compostela, but one reserved for those pilgrims who claim to be on a spiritual not a religious pilgrimage. However, his morals prevailed, and he was not disappointed.

On Friday at noon we all attended the pilgrim’s mass where the priest read out a long list of countries from which the pilgrims originated, where they started and how many completed it from each country. The piece de resistance, however, was the botafumeiro, a huge (maybe 6´ long by 1´ diameter) silver container for incense which is hung from a very strong and long rope pulley-style from the extremely high ceiling (90') of the Cathedral of Santiago. When lit the smell and smoke of the incense pours out, and the priests start to swing it over the heads of the attendees until it reaches the ceilings!

Well, we thought, we have just one more item to check off our list before declaring ourselves successful pilgrims, a trek to Finisterre, the end of the earth or so was thought during Roman times before the explorers started, well, exploring the seas. On Saturday we took a 2.5 hour bus ride (which by foot would have taken us three days minimum) to the earth’s end, and then walked the 2.5 K (each way) to the lighthouse. The sun shone and the blue skies bathed us as we climbed the hill. Len descended the hill and threw his stone into the ocean; Jean had camera in hand. Sue photographed the beauty as I saw it through the lens. Dick tried to stay out of the sun. We did it! We celebrated with the best dinner of the trip! Dick and Jean both ordered rape (raw-pay), a wonderful white fish poached in olive oil and Spanish paprika, with potatoes. Len eats beef or chicken when we eat fish. Sue promises to serve what she had at home for guests! Padrones, small green peppers, a bit spicy, grilled or deep-fried and served with olive oil and sea salt over them. Fabulous. Her main dish was a seafood salpicon--a melange of freshly cooked fish and seafood of several varieties, in small pieces, combined with red pimiento, onion, cooked egg white, olive oil and sea salt, served cold. My mouth was, and is, watering. Oh, and a very good, older than we have been drinking, 2005, Rebiero wine."

Day 43 – Arca to Santiago de Compostela

Day 43 – May 15 - Arca (Km 20) to Santiago de Compostela (Km 0) = 20 km – 744 km

“City of Santiago de Compostela, Province of A Coruña, Comunidad of Calicia, España
08 05 16, 09:59

Greetings to all via Brandon. We arrived in Santiago yesterday, Jean by bus around 09:00 and the rest of us around 14:30 on foot, a pie as the Spanish would say. It was a good day for walking except as we approached the old city, the heavens opened up and we walked the last few kilometers in rain. But no matter, we have arrived and arrived safely.

El Camino is completed. For me, 700 kilometers on foot and 50 kilometers by bus. Yesterday I was quite tired and hurting in a few places. I think I experienced some physical and mental letdown after arriving at our (very nice) hotel. Not letdown in a negative way but a kind of relaxation. My mind and body have been in a state of preparedness now for about 45 days. So now both can relax and enjoy the City of Santiago and the rest of Spain. After arriving at the hotel I indulged in my new addiction, a long hot soaking bath, and then we went and cashed in our credentials at the Oficina de Peregrinos. As a non religious pilgrim, I received the non religious certificate, but the best document is not the certificate but the credentiale with all the stamps of where I have been.

Today Jean and Sue are off doing the laundry, including almost every piece of clothing I have been wearing for the last six weeks. Jean wants to start throwing away some of my walking clothes but I have said no at least for now. Tomorrow we will go (by bus) to Cape Finisterre and deposit a stone from the alvar at Tobermory in the Atlantic Ocean and perhaps have a ritual cremation of a pair of my liner socks.

The rest of the time here we will be tourists. It is a little bit like visiting Rome. A great catholic Cathedral and great plazas with lots of tourist groups and vendors selling Santiago and Camino kitsch, but here half the people are dressed as pilgrims, and either carrying a backpack or dressed for cycling. We will buy a few select items as souvenirs but not much. We have bought almost nothing so far as everything we bought would have had to be carried

Monday we fly to Barcelona in the morning for a few days and then to Sevilla. We are hoping for a little warmer weather in the south of Spain. here it is cool and rains frequently.

Dad"

"I think that Dad wrote to you this morning while Sue and I found the launderia... quite an operation. The lady had 5 washers and 3 dryers and she was doing laundry continuously. People from the neighbourhood as well as the pilgrims were the main customers. When she was doing the laundry for someone, the laundry was folded, (ironed if needed) and then wrapped in white paper and then put into a white plastic bag.

I´m enjoying Santiago. I got the bus from Arca at about 8 am yesterday so was here by 9. I had a taxi to our hotel which is very close to the cathedral. Our rooms weren’t ready so armed with a map, I went exploring. It is an amazing place. I went into the cathedral about 9:15 and a mass started at 9:30 so I just stayed for it. There were less than 100 people in the whole place. Afterwards I went into the big square and there were a number of events. As you may have read in the paper, ETA which is a separatist movement had killed a policeman this week. There have been demonstrations around Spain since then. There was one in front of the government building that faces the Cathedral. About 30 politicians stood on the steps and were totally silent for over 10 minutes right at noon. Then they all clapped and it was over. Across the square on the steps of the cathedral, a group of university students unfolded a banner ....something about En Galego but my Spanish isn’t good enough to understand what they were chanting about.
Then there was a group of troubadours in academic gowns with coloured ribbons flowing where we would have a hood. They played a serenade with guitar and a small accordion... and then moved on. There were others selling the CDs of the group. Santiago is a major university town. I saw te social science building and thought I should get out my review of lit....but continued on.
At 12:30 I went into the pilgrim’s mass (which started at noon) and the place was packed...all seats taken and very little standing room left. It was quite an event and I saw a couple of pilgrims who had been at an Alburgue with us.

I have to say that it is definitely good that we did the Camino first and then the holiday because our hotel is very nice; hot water and heat which we did not always have on the Camino.
Dad is quite tired today. I think 45 days of continuous hiking was just about his limit....but you know Dad...if he says he’s going to do something he does!

Today after the laundry, the 4 of us went to the pilgrim’s mass. Going in we met a couple from Paris that I have talked about before. After pictures were taken with both cameras we parted ways...perhaps never to see each other again. It is an interesting phenomena because while on the Camino you become quite close to those you are traveling with......and after they are gone. Dad will tell you of the incense burner that swings high overhead to cleanse the pilgrims. I was in a pew with people from Germany who had been to Fatima and now Santiago before going home. Both are important holy sights for Catholics. The ceremony, the beautiful building, the music were quite amazing.

Tonight we are going to a Parado for cocktails. Then wee will have dinner somewhere else. We are trying to do a better job of ordering our food. Last night I had a pilgrims meal....1st course was a Spanish tortilla ( scrambled eggs with potatoes), 2nd course was paella filled with delicious seafood.... but too much for me to eat.....1 course would have been fine. Lunch today was a salad and we’ll try to order less for dinner.
Love Mom”

From Sue Schubert

"Santiago de Compostela
60 dg F. and pretty rainy!

The last steps seem difficult. But all we have to do is walk! In ages past, pilgrims not only had to walk to Santiago, but they also had to return home. This could take years! Quite a contrast to today when we see pilgrims talking on their cell phones! There aren’t many, but they are just as annoying as in any other situation and probably more so. The book promised us just 16K left to Santiago but it seems like many more. The route today is circuitous, not direct like it has been. Dick says they have made it like the trek to Mecca where one isn’t supposed to see the city until just before entering it. In this case it is the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. We are anxious to arrive, and we are tired.

We see several memorials today, which put our journey into perspective. There is Guillermo Watt, a 69-year old who died 15 years ago, very near the end of the Camino. His bronzed shoes have been placed near the memorial plaque. Tucked into one of them is a memorial card dedicated to a young American boy with no mention of how or where he died. Maybe his parents or sister hiked the trail and left the reminder? His smile reminds me of Taggart’s; it is beautiful. And Len told of a memorial near the beginning of the Camino, in France, of a 62-year-old Japanese man; he had hiked just 5K before he died of a heart attack. And Len even confided to us that he had no idea that he would survive the trip! It is a challenging journey, but a worthwhile one.

As we enter Santiago it pours rain, more rain than we have had on the entire trip. Where are those yellow arrows that help guide us so well? It took us an hour to get to city center from its periphery! Finally we see the Cathedral. You really have to see it to believe it. It is magnificent, opulent and holy; more on the cathedral tomorrow.

Our Hotel Rúa Villar is right next to the Cathedral, and it welcomes us--dripping wet, tired and ready for a shower. It is elegant, incredibly historic (thick granite walls, old beams), and it’s heated! Dick’s and my room looks out over the cathedral. We celebrate tonight with Spanish sparkly wine--Bravo todos! Before helping you understand the importance of Santiago (next entry), I have a few observations about the trail to catch you up on:

-It is very difficult for many who come along the trail to communicate. From our observations the Germans have the hardest time. In fact one day I observed one German man using sign language and grunting, pointing to things so the Spaniard would get his message. I am not sure if he did or not! And, for Asians it is difficult, too. But for those who bother to learn just a few simple words and phrases, they are rewarded generously.
-Like I said before, electricity is expensive here because of a lack of natural resources to produce it. So the Spaniards conserve A LOT. Light fixtures might have just one of two bulbs. And most lights in public places are on timers. Have you ever been in a restroom and had the light go out during a crucial moment? It happens here.
-Bread is a very important food here, as I have observed before. It is served with meals; sandwiches are made with it (described before); it is put in some soups; and it provides contact for some to the outer world. As we walked through small villages, the small bread truck would drive up and honk. Out came the house maker to receive the bread ordered. On one occasion I saw the younger bread deliveryman hug an older lady after he listened to her tale. Bread serves a very important function in Spanish society."

(ed. note - I'm not sure how many more posts their will be from Spain - likely a few additions from Sue and maybe Mom. Then the posts will probably stop for a while but check back in mid-june when the blog will be updated with all of Len & Jean's digital photos so you can see what it was like!)

Day 42 – Arzua to Arca

Day 42 – May 14 - Arzua (Km 39) to Arca (Km 20) = 19 km - Cumulative 724 km

"Arca, Province of A Coruña, Galicia, 08 05 14, 20:03

Today we did about 19 km in almost perfect hiking weather. We are now about 18 km from the centre of Santiago which we will complete tomorrow. It is quite cool this evening. Jean has put her long underwear on. And in most places we stay, the heat has been turned off for the summer. Fortunately most places are well supplied with thick extra blankets.

I will check my messages now and come back with a bit more detail. I know you are also getting messages from Jean so you already have some of the extra details. As has become the norm, Jean takes the bus or taxi and has each town scouted out by the time we arrive.

Yesterday we shared a balcony with a couple of men from England. One of them was sleeping but the other joined us for wine and entremeses (the English word for entremeses is hors d'oeuvres). His daughter had written some quotations in a book for him before he left. Here are some:

“It is better to travel than to arrive” (Buddha)

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only a page” (???) (ed. note – apparently from Saint Augustine - patron saint of brewers, printers, sore eyes, and theologians

“Sometime you find yourself in the middle of nowhere and sometimes in the middle of nowhere you find yourself” (???) (ed. note – possibly from Mark Twain)

“Travel like Gandhi, simple clothes, open eyes and an uncluttered mind” (???) (ed. note – from Rick Steves - an American author on European travel)

WE will have to find the sources of the last 3.

And last but certainly not least

“Not all those who wander are lost”

I knew the last one but could not think of the whole quotation so I looked it up. All of my children will know it well.

All that is gold does not glitter
Not all those who wander are lost
The old that is strong does not wither
Deep roots are not reached by the frost
From the ashes a fire shall be woken
A light from the shadows shall spring
Renewed shall be blade that was broken
The crownless again shall be king

I leave you to guess the source and the author

Len”

New Posts from Sue - scroll down to day 38/39/40/41!

Sue has caught up to Len and Jean blog wise - you can read her recent additions to the post on days 38-41.

Day 41 – Melide to Arzua

Day 41 – May 13 Melide (Km 53) to Arzua (Km 39) = 14 km – Cumulative 705 km

“Arzua, Province of A Coruña, Galicia 08 05 13 20:04

Hi Just a quick check in since your Mother has already sent you the news of the day. Today we are 38 km from Santiago, 2 days march so we are on schedule for a Thursday completion. More details then.

dad”

“I am in Arsua today and just happened upon a free internet. I have hiked to the edge of town to meet the hikers as our pensionne is a little difficult to find. Nothing much exciting. Last night Sue Dick and I had pulpo for dinner. Dad wasn´t going to touch it with a 10 foot pole! Pulpo is octopus. This was cooked in red wine then snipped into bite sized pieces, pile onto a wooden plate and drizzled with oil and paprika ( the paprika was hotter than we have in Canada and had quite a bite to it). The pulpo was a nice firm textured white meat but the sucker part was a little rubbery! The meal was very rich with all of the oil. Today they are hiking 15 km. Bus cost me 1.20€. Tonight our rooms are in a little family run business... an older couple who seemed happy to meet me and to know that I was from Canada. I’m getting quite good at asking directions and following the gestures but not the words. Today the man said terminus and I got the message to go to the end of the road. Sue has just arrived so I’ll sign off.

Love Mom”

From Sue Schubert

“A 13 K day
Rainy but not cold

Jean has become more valuable than we ever imagined. Besides doing her usual front (wo)man activities, she now finds the very best pastry shop in town! We arrive early in Arzúa and have the entire afternoon to scout out the sights (church complete with nuns); a general store and the pastelería. Our pensión is run by a (very) old couple. On the third floor of an old building, our accommodations have a common street-facing balcony, glassed in, which, in spite of the overhead clothes line, allows us a cozy setting for cocktail hour. So instead of looking at Dick´s washed underwear tonight, it just drips on our heads.

Arzúa´s general store is a highlight of the day, a local gem filled with everything from knick knacks to hardware, food to souvenirs, stuff that must have been on the shelves for decades, maybe centuries! Consuelo, the owner with her husband, and I have quite a chat. She is very unhappy with Spain’s president Zapatero. He isn’t helping the people to a better economy, only putting money into the pockets of the already-rich. There are a few rich at the top and mostly poor. Sound familiar? (We see an inordinate number of old stone homes and farms for sale on our path.) They pay too much in taxes; have too many immigrants and not enough native births. And, they aren’t rich like the U.S. I couldn’t convince her that our country is going the way of theirs. And even though she doesn’t long for Franco to be in power anymore (yes, I know he has been dead since 1975), things were on more of an even keel under him, according to her. Of course, they were! If you crossed him, the Guardia Civil would make sure your dead body went into one of the many common graves in the Spanish countryside. We had our photo taken together and I promised to send her a copy.

Tonight we find a small restaurant that opens early (American style) and have a fabulous homemade tourist menu, 12 euros each: fish soup, jamón and white asparagus, and potroast. Yum. The ubiquitous flat-screen TV. is on in the restaurant, as it is in all bars. Loud, annoying.

A few more observations about the pilgrimage. Pilgrims wear most anything on their feet: boots, Teva sandals, sports shoes, Crocs, etc. The trail can be sand, mud, moop (mud mixed with cow poop), sand, slate, granite (with or without mortar), brick, asphalt. What am I missing? Who knows.”

More stories from days gone past.... The Templars on the Camino

Dad/Len/Grampa passed through Ponferrada on May 4th.

"A few days ago we were in the small city of Ponferrada (Iron Bridge) and there was a great templar castle there. There has been evidence of a templar presence along much of the Camino as they set up hospices, churches and defensive positions along much of the Camino in its early days.

I don’t recall a lot about the origin of the Templars. I think they were established early during Christian rule in the Holy land (what is now Israel, Palestine and Lebanon, and holy to Christians, Jews and Muslims).They were an order of either military monks or religious knights, take your pick but they had both a religious and a military role.

Those of you familiar with Dan Brown’s book The Da Vinci code will recall that the central premise of the book was that a small core of the Templars had survived into modern times and had as their purpose to guard a sacred family, the descendents of Jesus Christ and Mary Magdalene (an hypothesis as logical to me as the official one).

In any event the Templars became very a very rich and powerful organization. They set up facilities along the major pilgrimage routes to both Jerusalem and later when Jerusalem fell into Muslim hands, to Santiago. They were some of the world’s original bankers. In those days if a pilgrim carried much cash, he would very likely be relieved of it by robbers. A pilgrim could deposit money with the Templars and they would provide him with a document to that effect and if the pilgrim used their facilities, they would deduct the appropriate sum and send him on his way to the next place.

Eventually they became in effect a state within a state, or rather a state within many states, and thereby a threat to both the established civil and religious order. They were also Gnostics and had slightly different religious beliefs than those promulgated by the Catholic Church. The King of France of the time owed the Templars a great deal of money and did not really want to pay it back. So he connived with the Pope of the day (Gregory the something or other) and created a series of charges against the Templars.

The King of France issued a set of secret orders that on a certain day, the Templar leaders were to be arrested and their lands and property were to be seized. That day was the 13 day of October in the year 1307. And so it was done. On the 13 of October all over France the Templar leaders including their Grand master, One Jacques de Molay were arrested and subject to all of the horrific punishments that were the norm of the middle ages in order to extract confessions. Many members of the Order were simply put to death, and their lands and assets were seized.

It happens that in the year 1307 the 13 day of October was a Friday. Our idea that Friday the 13 is unlucky does not come from pagan lore, or some religious event. Friday the 13 was the day that the Templar Order was destroyed.

Len”

Day 40 – Palas de Rei to Melide

Day 40 – May 12 Palas de Rei (Km 68) to Melide (Km 53) = 15 km – Cumulative - 691 km

“Melide, Province of A Coruña, Galicia

Hi

Melide is a small city in the centre of Galicia. It is mostly renowned for pulpo and pulperias (octopus restaurantes). We are now approximately 53 km from Santiago and that will be 3 days march. Today was a relatively short day, only 15 km but it seemed longer because my little toe (on my right foot) woke up after being blessedly tranquil for about two weeks. It spent the day telling me that I had ignored and abused it and that it was not going to stand quietly by and let that happen. Actually I think I inadvertently caused the damage this time because I had a bandage on the next three toes and that caused a rub on the little toe. And I will have to live with that now for the last 53 km. Tomorrow we will also walk only 15 km to Arzua, and then about 19 km to Arca and 19 km to Santiago on Thursday.

Dad”

“We are all in Melide with 3 more days to go. I have the autobus system under my belt and for 1.2€ I made it to Melide today. I also have the times for tomorrow. This bus line goes all the way to Santiago. There are usually other pilgrims on the bus too. Today there were 2 retired teachers from Norway and a man from Poland. There were also a number of young people who looked like they were heading back to college today ... perhaps in Santiago. I sat beside one but she was very closed in her actions and avoided any eye contact so I didn’t talk to her....imagine that!
The others hiked about 15 km. I hiked about 1 km out to meet them and there was a little village church where the priest was giving people a stamp in their credentials and signing it. We see lots of churches...all Catholic and sometimes 4 or 5 in 1 town. All have fresh flowers in them but we haven’t seen evidence of many services even on Sunday!
The local specialty here is pulpo ( octopus) so tonight we hope to have it for supper. Dad thinks he will go to MacDonald’s!!! This area also specializes in white wine and we are enjoying it. Yesterday I found a wonderful bakery so we had breakfast there this morning before everyone set off.

While I was waiting for our group to arrive, I spoke to a few people.... there is a couple from St. Paul, Minnesota ... he has a sore shin but they are hiking 15 km beyond here today so they will have hiked a total of 30 km. Three ladies from Ireland were hiking together … one was born in Scotland. The couple from Paris that I have written about on another day was at the little church where I met Len, Sue and Dick and they are at our hotel so we hiked in together.

Love Mom"

From Sue Schubert
"Still around 65 dg. F - An easy 15 km day

We are beginning the countdown to our final town, our goal Santiago de Compostela (Thursday). I asked Len how he feels about his Camino experience soon ending, since he has been at it since April 3. A mixture, he said, of sadness and of anticipation of things to come. The Camino offers a style of life never before experienced by us and hard to imagine if one doesn´t don his own boots! We will all savour what we take from it.

Our destination today is Melide, of pre-Roman origin. This is where the French way (Camino francés, the Camino we are on) joins the Northern coastal route that goes along through the Basque country, Cantábrica and Asturia.

The time passes slower today as we head into a much less interesting part of Spain--newer, more commercial, with fewer photo ops. That is, until I met Kristof, a young Hungarian with 3 years of college (philosophy), traveling with his girlfriend. However, they have separated for a few days while she takes it easy on a sore leg. In the meantime he hikes up to 45 K a day (he´s young), trying to make time and be frugal. In fact one night he and his girlfriend arrived in a town too late for a bed at the local albergue (they close by 10pm) and simply put their sleeping bags down on the floor of a house under construction! Kristof filled me in on the poor economic situation in Hungary in spite of their belonging to the E.U. Unfortunately, it hasn’t benefited them at all. Many of his friends have multiple degrees and no job. Kristof has taken another approach to life--work hard for a year, then travel for a year, and think about life while traveling.

We approach a Medieval Roman bridge (the second of the day) and Kristof’s good eyes spot a woman doing her wash in the river! As Catania would say, "Cool". I am certain the woman doing the wash would describe it differently. She is leaning into the river, her knees on a wooden support, while she scrubs and scrubs, running a bar of soap over the garment now and then, and then into the river to rinse. I would guess that she might be a part of a dying generation. We are on the outskirts of the village, in the old, interesting part. Another neighbor was already hanging her laundry to dry (while Spaniards have dryers, most hang their wash out), while a third was hoeing her garden. I wonder about their husbands: Dead? Working? In the city square passing the time with the other local men? At the bar drinking and chatting up their friends? It’s hard to know. By the way, wine isn’t considered an alcoholic drink as it is in the U.S., but just another beverage to be enjoyed at all times of the day and night. I’ll drink to that!

Okay, time to talk about a few interesting pilgrims we have seen. Today it was an older woman toting her belongings in a backpack on wheels. It made so much noise on the stones that it drove the other pilgrims a bit loco! Then the two Swedes, a mother and daughter. The mother is at least 75 years old and a brisk walker. We discovered what propels them when we stopped for our second breakfast along the trail: They always have a beer, no matter the time of day. "

Day 39 – Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Day 39 – May 11 Portomarin (Km 93) to Palas de Rei (Km 68) = 25 km – Cumulative 676

"Palas de Rei, Province of Lugo, Galicia 08 05 11 16:

Well we are rapidly closing in on the City of Santiago de Compostela. Yesterday we crossed the 100 km post (in Galicia the Camino is marked with concrete kilometer posts every .5 km marking the distance to Santiago. Also yesterday I completed 600 km on foot from Roncesvalles. Today we had a relatively long day, about 24 km, but not a difficult day so we were done about an hour earlier than I expected. Here in Palas de Rei we are 68 km from Santiago. We will have 2 easy days of 15 km each and then 2 days of about 19 km each. If all goes well we will arrive in Santiago about 14:00 on Thursday June 15. And the Camino will be done, at least the walking part.

There are many rituals associated with completing the Camino and we will observe and report on them all. Then we will take a bus trip to Cape Finisterre, the end of the earth (or so it was thought for most of human existence). And then we will put down our packs, take off our boots and become tourists (tourists are a lower form of life on the Camino but are ok once the Camino has been completed.

Dad."

From Mom.
"I thought I would just add a few things about people I have met in the last couple of days. (Editor’s note – I’m almost as shocked that mom is finding out the life stories she meets on her travels as I was that Dad shaved his beard!).

Lisa from Malmö Sweden- bad pain in hips and heels, had a kidney transplant 2 years ago and is hiking the Camino. She teaches in a preschool

Yesterday- Rhea from Whiterock ( mentioned in previous email) a lady who is a geriatric nurse and knows people I know from home care in Ontario; her sister lives on Dawson court in Milton(ed. I think Mom might mean Dawson Crescent in Milton – my old address!), a couple from Australia who were eating with Chas and Ian (also from Australia) and who I have mentioned before because we seem to be on the same timetable) This couple were telling me of a young family that they saw on the Camino - mother, father, 4 year old and 2 year old and 2 donkeys. Most days the children ride the donkeys and the parents carry the packs. When the going is hard for the donkeys, the parents carry the children and the donkeys carry the packs. Today and in O´Cebriero I saw a young German couple traveling with their dog that also carried her own packs and drinking cup. One day we saw a couple along the trail. He had a regular bike and she had an electric bike so when she wanted to she had power. Another day I saw 2 on bikes- the lady on a reclining bike and the man on a regular bike.
- Anika and her father- Anika is a young German girl perhaps 20 and she and her dad are on the Camino. Her brother is in Japan teaching English and the mother stays at home getting emails from the travelers. We heard of another way to do the Camino. There is a group organized by Travels Abroad in London England and Victoria BC. The group is about 14 plus tour guide. They can walk or hike at their pleasure as the bus is always with them. Usually they will walk a section and then they will drive to another section. I think the guide chooses the interesting parts for them. Some of the Camino is alongside the road and is less interesting than when the path goes off into the fields and countryside. Today there is a string of little villages so Len will be enjoying it and there will be places for second breakfast and first lunch.

I want to search out a new book written by a German comedian about his travel on the Camino. We have met many Germans who have been inspired by his book and apparently it is now translated into English.
Kazuko would get a chuckle: At O´Cebreiro there was a busload of Japanese tourist so I said “Ohio” (ed. Actually a Japanese greeting, not actually spelled like the state (to my knowledge)) to a lady and she smiled and bowed. I don’t think she expected to hear a familiar sound.....

At this tourist office I have found that there are many busses going to where I need to go tomorrow so I’ll be on the bus. I keep telling Dad that I am dollar cost averaging my transportation. The taxi today was 20 € but the bus the day before was 2.10€. Well, perhaps this is enough for now. At least these notes will help me to remember who I have met.
Will write again soon
Love mom"

From Sue Schubert

"26 K
70 dg. F, and sun, sun, sun
Sunday, 11 May

Today was a huge long day, but a great one! The sun shined on us all day as we went up, up, up and then down, down into the river valleys. There were many highlights today as we went from one village to another: a woman doing her wash out-of-doors in a huge, old square concrete pool, scrubbing the clothes on the slanted part, then rinsing them in the same manner. I wonder how long their clothes last?

A while later as we pass a bar, there is a group of caballeros, their horses tethered to a railing while they patronized the bar. Soon, they mount and gallop past us. Later, we saw the same horses tethered up to the next bar. Not a bad way to pass a Sunday in Northwestern Spain! We are going through a very rich farming area, passing by fincas (farms), or, according to the guidebook, mansions. We didn’t see anyone doing their wash in a huge bathtub out-of-doors, or running their sheep to pasture here!

We arrive at our destination and our guide, Jean, has found a fabulous pastelería. Throw the backpacks in the room and run to the pastelería! All made by María, the owner, Dick has an empanada, Sue a mini pizza, and Jean a Larpeira cake, a piece so large that it could have fed us all easily! Wine and hors´ tonight provided by Jean, a 2 euro bottle of local wine. The competition is on!"

Message from the Pilgrim Mom on Mother's Day

Today is Sunday and as it is Mother’s Day in Canada I want to send you my love. I miss you all as we seem to be in another world on the Camino. Already today I have dried the laundry; sent the Pilgrims off on their long day of 26 km and taken the taxi to Palas del Rei. I have found the hotel and checked in, scouted the town and found a wonderful pastry shop where I watched the ladies baking endless goodies and restrained myself to a tuna empanada ( like a folded over meat pie) and tea. I have found the farmacia for Sue and visited the church ...very old but beautiful. Today is sunny ...first sun we have seen in 3 days and we are hoping for good weather for the rest of the week. I have to say that the taxi Camino suits me much better. Yesterday was also good. I took the bus from Sarria to Portomarin. I was with a lot of pilgrims...the bus was full. One lady from Whiterock and I spent the day together. The work was kind of the same. We got off the bus, had coffee con leche; found our 2 hotels then scouted out the church etc before the walkers arrived. She is traveling with 3 other women. We had dinner last night at a little restaurant overlooking the valley and it was beautiful. The old Portomarin was flooded in 1963 and the town relocated to the top of a hill. I think there had been a town there before as the church was very old.
Dad has passed 600 km and is now focused on getting to Santiago. My computer time is running out so I’ll sign off for now and likely Dad will write tonight.
Love Mom

Day 38 – Sarria to Portomarin

Day 38 – May 10 Sarria (Km 115) to Portomarin (Km 93) = 22 km Cumulative - 651 km

From Sue Schubert

“Sarria to Portomarín, 22.9 K
Saturday, 10 May, rainy

There has been a hiatus; everyday can’t be a blog day or you would be convinced that we aren’t walking! This is the drill: Get into town, be greeted by Jean, who is as glad to see her fellow pilgrims as we are glad to see her! She already knows where our hostal for the day is (no more albergues for us; we have been spoiled by not sharing our bedroom and bath); she has the keys and escorts us to our rooms. Ahhhh, Canadian hospitality in Spain! Where’s the internet café? Where should we have lunch? Our hostess has it all figured out. Jean has joined this rather interesting sorority of bus\taxi riders who bare their souls. Jean listens. Have you ever noticed that when we are on an airplane, for instance, people want to tell us their life story? It is no different for Jean on the bus with other peregrinos reticentes, pilgrims who would rather not, or can’t, walk.

Our hike yesterday and today started and ended in the rain. But cold it is not. We shed our clothing quickly as we hike along each day (of course not all of it)! Last night in our Hotel Roma we wanted to do our laundry by hand and have it dry by the morning. No way! Since spring has sprung in Spain, the room heaters have been turned off. Oh, well, throw damp clothing in the backpack and off we go. The town of Sarria is rather new and uninteresting, but the path out of town intrigues us--old prison, old and reconstructed hospital for lepers. I have photos of all, of course!

The path today is incredibly unpredictable. Or, maybe it is quite predictable--wet, wet, muddy, sloshy and slippery, but oh so charming. Through tiny towns I could name but won’t; past farms small and large, poor and rich; stopping as the farmers escort the cows to the barn for milking or the sheep to the high field for grazing. The shepherd was wearing wool slacks and sweater with a blazer, holding an umbrella. When I spoke with him, telling him what a hard-working dog he had, he showed me the few teeth he has. These aren’t wealthy people. He answered me in Gallego, the local language, which I don’t understand. Every Spaniard is required to know Spanish or Castellano, as I explained before. But I assume this man is uneducated.

Our second breakfast today is in a bar in the tiny village of Mercado de Serra, population 20, más o menos (more or less), according to the patron there having his morning vino tinto cut with water! The proprietress is charming and interested in our countries of origin. The two were chatting it up about local affairs. There are a lot of old, lonely people here, and this is one way for them to pass the time and connect.

Today seemed like a long hiking day (for us). Some youngins´ can hike up to 30-45 K; we don’t compete. We all have our issues, feet, knees, etc., but mostly we are well and eager for the hiking day. We are now starting to see a lot of hórreos, the rectangular structures on stilts that measure about 5´ wide and maybe 20´ long, that protect grains and cereals from rats and rains. I think I may have mentioned them before (but rereading my writing isn’t a priority). Call it a history lesson.

Once in a while on the path we pass a cross in memory of a pilgrim who has died, either of natural causes or by accident (usually hit by a vehicle). Luckily the markers don’t bear any of our names.

Finally we are in Portomarín, a town which had to be moved during the 1960´s when Franco decided to damn the river, Río Miño, as a water source for the region. The new town was built up on the side of a hill, and some of the old structures (government, ecclesiastic) were moved stone-by-stone. We got our sello (pilgrim’s stamp) in our credential and settled in. And Jean has found a place where we can do our laundry (wash and dry) in the municipal albergue. While there, we see many "friends" from the trail, plus meet new ones. We meet our first Turk since starting the trail. He is young, worldly and speaks four languages. When I asked him how long we should spend in Turkey when we travel there, he said "2-3 months"!

Surprise! Dick went snooping about and found a 1 euro bottle of wine, no label, and some potato chips, and thus our first spontaneous pre-dinner cocktail party was initiated. What fun!

Bedtime, around 9pm, is always welcome!”

More stories from days gone past.... The Convento de San Anton and St. Anthony's Fire

This is another story from previous days when time and/or internet access weren't as readily accessible. Dad/Len/Grampa passed through Castrojeriz on April 20th.

“A couple of weeks ago now, I was approaching the town of Castrojeriz. This was during the not so nice weather period. A few km before Castrojeriz, I came across a large stone structure that my guidebook called a “ruins”. The sign said it was the Convento de San Anton. It was not quite correct to call it a ruins because part of it was still in use, but it was very large, almost of castle proportions but without any defensive structures.

The Convento de San Anton was a hospital. In our times the word hospital is used only in a medical context but the original use of the word is as a place of hospitality, a welcoming place of shelter, warmth, care and yes sometimes healing. There are many places on the Camino with the word Hospital in their name.

The Convento de San Anton was a place of refuge and care for pilgrims especially from northern Europe who were coming to Santiago for relief from a very common and very painful disease called St. Anthony’s Fire. St. Anthony’s Fire was a disease in which the peripheral areas of the body became very painful, eventually turned black and in very severe cases fingers, toes or even hands and feet could fall off (I am not making this up, this really does happen). The disease was more common in the northern and wetter parts of Europe and less common in the southern drier parts. It was also more common where bread had a high component of rye grain. In the middle ages no one knew what caused this terrible affliction.

Well today we know exactly what St. Anthony’s Fire is (or was). St. Anthony’s Fire is Ergotism. Ergot is a fungus that infects grains and particularly rye grains. The fungus is called Claviceps purpurea (Brandon, please check that I am correct here, it is a while since I reviewed this). The active principle of Claviceps purpurea is to cause contraction of smooth muscle including blood vessels. If a person or an animal eats bread made from infected rye flour or the grain itself, the peripheral blood vessels contract depriving the affected areas of blood, causing pain and eventually if enough contaminated food is eaten it may cause dry gangrene of the extremities and eventually they may self amputate (drop off). The pharmacological principle in ergot has even been used as a drug to cause smooth muscle contraction to induce eg uterine contraction. I don’t know if it is still in use or not.

In any event this common disease in the middle ages that was called St. Anthony’s Fire is Ergotism and is caused by eating bread made from contaminated rye flour or in the case of animals by being fed contaminated grain.

So the Convento de San Anton was a place that was set up to heal pilgrims affected by St. Anthony’s Fire. The treatment was probably a combination of kind care, good food, clean water, rest and lots of prayer. And it probably worked but not for reasons which were understood then. Of course the care was important. But more important was that the affected pilgrims stopped eating contaminated bread. In the south rye was less common and most breads were made of wheat flour which is more resistant to ergot.

Today Ergotism is uncommon in people because grains are inspected for fungal contamination and affected grain is taken out of the human food chain. It is still seen occasionally in animals because grain considered unfit for human consumption can still be fed to livestock. I seem to remember a case in Russia???? not too long ago where some unscrupulous person did introduce infected grain into flour for human consumption and did cause a modern outbreak of St. Anthony’s Fire.

In the middle ages it was likely that even had people known the cause of this disease, they may not have had much choice. It may have been a case of eating the contaminated bread or starving to death. Also their storage facilities for grains were probably not ideal. Today for example we dry our grain carefully.

Len”

Editor’s note – apparently St. Anthony’s Fire refers to different things in different geographies. Certainly ergotism is the big one but in some areas it also refers to Erysipelas (more common in the UK and US) and Herpes zoster (especially in Italy and Malta) I considered adding an image of ergotism from a veterinary pathologist’s perspective but settled on images of the Convento de San Anton.

Day 37 – Triacastela to Sarria

Day 37 – May 9 Triacastela (Km 134) to Sarria via Samos (Km 115) = 19 km 629

“Sarria, Province of Lugo, Comunidad of Galicia 08 05 09 15:15

We are in Galicia, rainy Spain and today we walked all day (about 5 hours in the rain. Not torrential rain but a continuous drizzle. Today we are 115 km from Santiago, and if all goes well we will reach Santiago next Thursday, May 15, on schedule.

Dad”

"I am the pilgrim of the autobus and today I left Sue Dick and Dad in Tricastela and took the bus. Met a number of interesting pilgrims on the bus and have experienced a new hot chocolate drink...thicker than usual and you get 6 doughnut like sticks that you dip into the chocolate... very rich and very good. Yesterday I took the taxi to Tricastela because the bus left O Cebriero at 7 am ...just too early. I am finding that just being here is quite a job; each day I figure out how to the to the net stop. Usually Dad and I scout it out the night before because he can ask questions in Spanish. Once the bus arrives at the appointed place, then I have to find our hotel so I have learned to pay attention to the street names and my directions. Then I have to ask for the rooms, register with my passport and get the keys. Next I usually try to scout out the town to see what sights the group would like to see and where they would like to eat.

Yesterday as I made my scouting walk, I met 2 Australians who were stopped for a coffee. We knew them because they had been at our previous alburgue so I just had coffee with them. In the conversation, one said that his wife did not want to come as she was completing her post graduate thesis.....I said oh my! It’s as if the community of the Camino travels along and the places change. I have lost track of the days of the week and the places we have stayed. As one lady from Paris said "All we think of is where we are; where we are walking, where we will eat and where we will sleep." We have nothing else to focus on.

While waiting for the walkers yesterday, I me an Audrey..... who was head of homecare for Minburn-Vermillion during the time that we were in Alberta. She knew Gloria Lerrand. She had trained at Toronto Western.

Hope all is well. We have 7 more days to the end of the Camino and then will be on holiday.
Love Mom"

From Sue Schubert

Galicia is magnificent!

There is definitely a different feel to Galicia--huge farmlands lush and green, divided by rock walls (no mortar), the path mostly steep down, down. Follow the yellow arrows and, in Galicia, the way markers (concrete with the kms. left to Santiago well marked). There is never a rush. Our hiking days continue their pattern: A quick Spanish breakfast of toast, orange juice (usually fresh squeezed), and coffee; on the trail by 8:30, hike 20 Kml.; second breakfast or first lunch, depending on the hour (always in a bar along the trail); a coffee or beer as we near our destination (another bar).

Some more observations:

-The farmers in the field usually wear royal blue pants and shirt; the women, royal blue skirt and shirt, with an apron. All wear galoshes. It is muddy!
-We are often stopped by cows being herded to the barn to be milked. Or sheep to pasture by the farm dog.
-Today a farm woman came out and offered us freshly made crepes as we passed by! We chatted and gave her 1 euro each.
-Many villagers wish us well. It helps that we greet them in Spanish.
-Pilgrims hike in many different ways. Some have their packs transported for them daily via taxi. They walk with a day pack. Some have arranged at home (via travel agent) that each day they won’t hike over 15 K; a taxi awaits them at that point to transport them to their destination where their backpacks await!
-Many pilgrims hurt (physically). Perhaps they didn´t train before getting on the trail. Maybe they have new boots. Or, they aren´t in shape; or, their backpack is too heavy. Maybe the trip isn’t for them, and they realize this after arriving in Spain. Everyone has a different reason for hiking the Camino and either giving up, or completing their goal. We are all on a different journey.
-The Spanish love their cured meats, and in many places we see it hanging from the ceiling of the bars and restaurants: hams, bacon, chorizo, etc.
-There are some very old buildings in Galicia called pallozas which used to house farm families. Today they are museums and we toured one. In days of old, before roads were put through (and new building materials could be brought in), pallozas were very common--round with thatch roofs, dirt floors, and plenty of space to cure meats at the ceiling. The parents had the only private room; the kids shared the common room; there was a separated-off room for the kitchen; and space for the animals adjacent. No heat; no electricity; hardly any light."

ANOTHER CONTRIBUTOR

Over the next few weeks, in addition to the messages from Len and Jean, I will include text from Sue Schubert's own travel blog that she is making for her friends and family. The original blog can be seen at (http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1209735600/tpod.html) but I will likely include pretty much everything relevant in these posts. To differentiate the sources, I will italicize anything from that source. I have added some extra contributions from Sue to the previously posted Day 29/30, Day 31 and Day 32 postings as well as dividing day 29 and day 30 into 2 separate posts now that I know where they stopped the first day. As you will see, Sue is very loquacious so you will get a different and more in depth perspective on the Way! You may also want to check earlier days every once in a while because some of Sue's information may come after I post messages from Len/Jean!
brandon

Day 36 – O Cebreiro to Triacastela

Day 36 – May 8 O Cebreiro (Km 154) to Triacastela (Km 134) = 20 km – Cumulative 610 km

"Two days ago we were in the land of up. For 12 km we went up. Except for a couple of very short down sections we went up all day. And when we were finished we had arrived in the village ofO Cebriero perched on top of the world, at least that part of the world we were in (1300m.) O Cebriero started as a celtic village and is built of stone walls and thatched roofs. In winter it has only 12 residents but in summer it is filled with `pilgrims and bus tourists.

Yesterday was the land of down. All day for 18 km we came down to Tricastela. Going down is always more difficult and yesterday I fell for the first time. large llose stones and I knew they had the potential to trip me up and so they did. However not much damage except to my ego."

From Sue Schubert

"It is still sunny and we are entering Galicia!

Spain has around a dozen autonomous regions, and Galicia is one of them (located in the Lugo region). Castilla-León, which we left this morning, is another of the regions--all of which have their own local traditions and customs.

This afternoon we enter Galicia, the Gaelic part of Spain and much like Scotland, due to the invasion of the Celts long ago. We see heather, hear bagpipe music and walk through mostly green, lush and pastoral countryside grazed by cattle, sheep, pigs, sheep and chickens. In fact along the trail we passed a farm where the woman was sheering sheep by hand, while her husband looked on! The mountains of Galicia are the first objects in 5,000 km that the westerly winds coming across the Atlantic hit so there is, indeed, an immediate change of weather as we hit the mountaintop. Misty, foggy, much cooler.

Galicia shares many similarities with other Celtic regions--too poor to provide much employment for its large family structures, emigration of its younger men is common. However, the pilgrimmage of close to 100,00 people per year has brought a dependable income to many. Galicia is one of several regions of Spain with its own language, Gallego, which the people speak, along with Castillian (Spanish), which is the national language.

I must tell you about Jean, our front (wo)man, so to speak! Because Jean doesn´t hike, she arrives at our destination hours ahead of us. In the meantime, she has had time to find our hostal, register us and become acquainted. Where is the internet cafe (or a computer for rent)? She knows. Where should we eat lunch? She knows that, too. What sights should we see? Jean is our guide. She has evolved into the unofficial welcome wagon of each town we stay in--greeting and helping pilgrims in any way she can. Probably the funniest was when she arrived at the Brazilian Albergue ahead of us. She had had time to learn the ropes, welcome the pilgrims that Cristina, the owner, didn´t have time to welcome, show people to the dormitory, and, the next day before her taxi arrived, have time to clean the entire dormitory! Like Jean said, the albergues have very strict rules and everyone must be out by 8am. Since her taxi wasn´t arriving until 10, she had to get to work!"

Day 35 – Vega de Valcarce to O Cebreiro

Day 35 – May 7 Vega (Km 166) to O Cebreiro (Km 154) = 12 km Cumulative – 590 km

From Sue Schubert:

"It is still sunny and we are entering Galicia!

Spain has around a dozen autonomous regions, and Galicia is one of them (located in the Lugo region). Castilla-León, which we left this morning, is another of the regions--all of which have their own local traditions and customs.

This afternoon we enter Galicia, the Gaelic part of Spain and much like Scotland, due to the invasion of the Celts long ago. We see heather, hear bagpipe music and walk through mostly green, lush and pastoral countryside grazed by cattle, sheep, pigs, sheep and chickens. In fact along the trail we passed a farm where the woman was sheering sheep by hand, while her husband looked on! The mountains of Galicia are the first objects in 5,000 km that the westerly winds coming across the Atlantic hit so there is, indeed, an immediate change of weather as we hit the mountaintop. Misty, foggy, much cooler.

Galicia shares many similarities with other Celtic regions--too poor to provide much employment for its large family structures, emigration of its younger men is common. However, the pilgrimmage of close to 100,00 people per year has brought a dependable income to many. Galicia is one of several regions of Spain with its own language, Gallego, which the people speak, along with Castillian (Spanish), which is the national language.

I must tell you about Jean, our front (wo)man, so to speak! Because Jean doesn´t hike, she arrives at our destination hours ahead of us. In the meantime, she has had time to find our hostal (today the Hostal O´Cebreiro),, register us and become acquainted. Where is the internet cafe (or a computer for rent)? She knows. Where should we eat lunch? She knows that, too. What sights should we see? Jean is our guide. She has evolved into the unofficial welcome wagon of each town we stay in--greeting and helping pilgrims in any way she can. Probably the funniest was when she arrived at the Brazilian Albergue ahead of us. She had had time to learn the ropes, welcome the pilgrims that Cristina, the owner, didn´t have time to welcome, show people to the dormitory, and, the next day before her taxi arrived, have time to clean the entire dormitory! Like Jean said, the albergues have very strict rules and everyone must be out by 8am. Since her taxi wasn´t arriving until 10, she had to get to work!"